給想去烏尤尼(Uyuni)的台灣同胞們參考! (血淚經驗分享)

前面一篇提到在烏尤尼(Uyuni)的經驗很糟. 怎麼個糟法? 以下是中文簡要版

我們在La Paz的時後被告知到Uyuni會和另一個三人團體併團. 我們對併團其實沒什麼意見,甚至還有點興奮,畢竟我們在Cusco的四天行程裡,有三天都是跟另一團併, 人多笑聲多, 還蠻有趣的. 我們甚至留下彼此的電話, 以後可以連絡

誰知道到了烏尤尼,接了我們後去接那三人,我一看就傻眼了!  那不是三個人而已, 是三個人外加一條狗! 去烏尤尼的車子不大 (Nissan)的一般四驅車, 座了七人(我們2+3+司機+領隊)已經很不舒服,還有一條狗! 而且我們根本不知道有狗!  我對狗有很深的恐懼症之外(從小悲慘遭遇所致), 狗的味道讓我不舒服. 我馬上就跟領隊說不能有狗,狗需要留在Uyuni市區. 領隊跟狗主人講,狗主人說: 不行,問過公司公司說可以帶狗.  然後領隊就強迫我必須接受,因為我們有被告知要併團.  可是, 和三人併團是一回事,和三人+狗併團是另一回事啊!!


領隊的做法是把狗主人和狗放到前座,要求我座後座, 一車七人+一狗開始. 沒多久,我已經開始不舒服了! 但領隊根本不接受我的要求, 甚至在我要他請對方把狗留下來後, 就已經開始不跟我講話. 還好那時後還沒離開烏尤尼市區太遠, 我手機還可以通,只好趕快連絡我們在La Paz的連絡人,讓他知道不是三人,還有狗! 在La Paz的連絡人表示他會了解情況. (從這個回應, 我們猜測La Paz的連絡人根本也不知道對方其實還有帶狗!)

到了第一站火車墳場, 我又跟領隊講說: 我開始不舒服了,我真的沒辦法跟狗關在一車上三天. 然後隨時看La Paz的連絡人是否回應了. 不久就聽到領隊在跟公司老闆講電話,一下子又跑回來問: 妳們是哪來的? 對於這問題我們很詫異,說: "美國啊" (明明已經問過).　領隊說：不不不,美國之前是哪裡? 日本?韓國?

對於這問題我們覺得更詭異了,但還是回答: "台灣"   然後就開始聽到他一直講Taiwanese (其他西班牙文或Quechua,一種當地語言,事實上更多時後他們是西班牙文和Quechua的混合). 我覺得很奇怪,這事情的處理跟我們從哪裡來有什麼關連?

總之我們就在火車墳場等. 當時我就想好了, 我一定不跟狗同車. 這是基本的尊重嘛! 哪有不問對方就直接強迫接受的? 尤其在我已經表達我對狗的恐懼和狗味道給我的不適之後

過了一會, 我們在La Paz的連絡人回我說,他跟對方公司講好了! 有兩個方案:

方案一: 三人團體把狗留在烏尤尼, 行程繼續 (其實這也是我一開始就跟領隊講的)
方案二: 對方堅持不留狗的話, 看是我們兩人繼續行程,或者是狗主人以外的兩人跟我們一起繼續行程

兩個方案我們都接受,也認為兩個方案都合理.因為事實上一開始就是說是三人團體,怎會平白多出一條狗呢?


結果導遊無法說服對方把狗留下來,對方跟我們說: 我們當初就有問公司可否帶狗,公司說可以的. 既然如此,這就是公司的責任了! 公司應該把訊息清楚告知各方的,而不是試圖隱藏,領隊更不該強迫我要接受.

總之,對方不願意留狗下來,另外兩個同伴也不願意留下狗主人一人,於是我們兩人繼續行程,他們和另一台車(講西班牙文的團)繼續. 

從那起,領隊都不再和我講話. 其實那也沒關係,他英語超爛, 問問題也都聽不懂或是答非所問 (後面會舉例).所以不講也沒關係. 雖然氣氛不好,反正我看風景就好.

就這樣,行程繼續. 我還在慶幸說,還好一開始我的恐懼症就發作了想跳車,那時後電話還通,還可以連絡我們的旅行社在La Paz的負責人.  誰知道領隊的不滿持續, 到了第二天整個發做


第二天我們到晚上投宿的hostel時還不到下午四點半, 我們表示想先洗澡 (前一天冷到嚇到了), 也問領隊幾點晚餐. 再次強調,那時後四點半不到,領隊說要七點半才吃晚餐. 我們請領隊問說是否可以早點. 前面提到他英語很爛, 這是個最好的例子. 我們說: 7:30 is too late.  Can we have dinner earlier? 結果他回答: I don't understand.  What is late? What is earlier? (我不懂.什麼是late?什麼是earlier?) 所以我們得用非常非常簡單的英文再講一次. 請他去問.

接著我們就先回房間洗澡.洗完出來問他是否問過廚師可以早點吃晚餐. 他的回答是: 沒有,我不需要問也不需要解釋.七點半就是七點半.
我對他說: 你也許不需要解釋,但我們需要了解為什麼現在四點半不到, 不能早一點吃飯好休息. 他拒絕去問.強硬的說他不需要解釋

這時後我先生對他說: 我們想要早點吃飯早點休息.那我們一起去問.就拉著領隊和我去問廚師. 我們透過肢體語言讓廚師知道我們餓了! 問說可否提前吃? 請領隊翻譯,結果一問,廚師自己說: 6:30可以嗎? 我們很滿意,說6:30沒問題.

就在我們以為問題解決了之時! 問題就來了. 吃飯到一半, 領隊來講明天的行程,還很得意的說: 你看你們是第一桌開始吃晚餐的. 事實上我們到的時後,已經有一桌,而且其他桌也在我們到的三五分鐘內就全數出現了! 根本就是他懶得問. 但我們沒說那麼多, 只回他: 不是喔,我們來的時後後面一桌已經開始了! 你看,就問一下廚師就好了嘛!很簡單的啊

結果他就整個爆走了!

我前面就說過他不跟我講話, 沒關係. 這下他更誇張了! 他對我先生說, 然後用手指指著我: 她歧視! 明明就只是一隻狗,有什麼問題? 不是我的問題! 都是她的問題! 歧視歧視歧視! 7:30吃飯有什麼問題? 不是我的問題,都是她的問題! 她沒教育, 她是壞人! 就只是一條狗!有什麼關係. 

我先生試圖跟他溝通,舉了個例子說: 有人對花生過敏,告訴你時,你會怎麼處理? 你會把花生拿走,是吧? 你不會強迫對花生過敏的人吃花生吧? 你也不會因為這樣指責對花生過敏的人說他歧視吧?
結果那領隊繼續罵,繼續重複罵我歧視,那只是一條狗,沒關係等等.還說: 我不需要那些錢! 還說 I am done with Taiwan (我不知道要怎麼翻成中文)

我受不了這種莫名奇妙的指控,晚餐才吃一半就離開餐桌.沒兩分鐘我先生也離開,因為他意識到根本無法跟這領隊溝通,覺得多說無益. 我們討論著是否要跟hostel的主人借衛星電話,連絡La Paz,因為不是很有把握領隊接下來會做出什麼事情. 但覺得司機可能還好,最差就是都不要下車,或是連著司機.

我們還討論了一下,這跟錢到底什麼關係?為什麼他要一直強調我不需要那些錢? 又跟我們是台灣來還是哪裡來的有什麼關係? 我們的推測是: 因為他本來以為有五個人會給他小費,現在明顯少了三人給他小費了! 所以他才提"錢"  (事實上那麼糟的情況, 我們最後只給司機小費, 一毛都不給他).

但,最差的是, 因為怕狗, 就要被罵歧視, 這種領隊千萬不能跟! 

這公司也不老實! 因為那三人告訴我們他們有問過公司可以帶狗嗎? 公司說可以! 所以公司一開始就應該問過我們,也應該跟我們在La Paz的連絡人講,並不是只有三人，而是三人＋狗。蓄意隱藏資訊！

此外, 我們還懷疑領隊還隱藏其他的.例如說, 我們的travel agency當初講的很清楚,會有熱茶因為天氣很冷.結果第一晚就沒有熱茶,要我們要.  在Uyuni的時後,我看到公司的其他人在上貨, 有其他食材(例如:cabbage),但我們的餐從來沒出現過有cabbage! 又,當第二天中午午餐時，我們問領隊前一天才新開的茶呢？（一盒裡有好幾包茶包）可以先把那包吃完啊！領隊完全不理會（也有可能是他英語太差聽不懂啦）。那樣就算了！結果到了第三天在一個偏僻之處有個房子,他們把車子停下來,要我們在車上等,然後就看著他們卸貨. 後來說是司機的媽媽住那裏. 我們的猜想是: 他把那些東西都給他媽媽了!  其實沒用完的食材沒吃完的給他媽媽也沒關係,畢竟我們都用公筷母匙. 但是, 我們好奇到底有哪些東西是公司準備給我們,也含在對我們的收費裡的,但卻是給了他媽媽?

我們也不懂他為什麼要問我們是哪來? 這件事情到底跟我們是哪裡人有什麼關係? 還要說 I am done with Taiwan. 真是莫名其妙


強烈建議: 避開這間公司. 更不要找這個領隊(說不定他跟不只一個公司當領隊). 這公司是Cordillera Expeditions,  這領隊名字聽起來是me-cello, "米切羅". 


(好我知道這一點都不簡要啦XD)

以下英文版全文:

Some background information first-- we had 14-day customized tour in Peru+Bolivia with an US-based travel agency who helped us to find local operators in where they don't have local presence, for example, Uyuni. 

Before flying to Uyuni, the representative in La Paz of the travel agency told us that we will have a shared trip with a group of 3 people, which we had no problems at all. In fact, in 3 out of our 4 days tour in Cusco, we had a shared trip with another group of 6 and we had a great time.

However, as soon as we flew to Uyuni, we started to feel that this time it may not go as well. The local operator (i.e., Cordillera Expeditions) came very late to pick us up and we had to call La Paz to double check that someone will pick us up. The first real problem was, after us, they drove us to pick up the group of 3 in downtown Uyuni and it turned out that it's not a group of 3 as we were told. It is a group of 3 Belgian girls + a dog! Having phobia + the smell of the dog makes me sick, I told the guide (whose name sounds like Me-Cello, please pronounce in English) right away that I had no problem sharing with a group of 3, but not with a dog as my phobia and etc so I would suggest them leaving the dog in Uyuni. The guide first asked the dog owner, and the dog owner said that she did inform the company that she has a dog and the company said it's okay. However, we were never told of that! This is why we felt that the company is not honest to begin with.

Because the dog owner insisted to take the dog, the guide forced me to share the car with the group because they have told us it is a shared tour. He made the dog owner sat in the front seat which normally is for the guide and made me sit in the very back to "separate" me from the dog. I did try to compromise but it didn't work out for me at all and I started to feel ill. At the first stop, the train cemetery, I told the guide that no, it won't work for me. The guide still tried to force me but I was very firmed this time. I also texted our travel agency representative in La Paz right away that they needed to rearrange something because of my issues with the dog. Our La Paz representative said he will verify with Cordillera Expeditions, and handled the situation quickly and gave us two options--either they leave the dog in Uyuni and we continued as a 5-person group, or if they insisted to take the dog, then we continued as either private tour or private tour +2 (the non dog-owners). We accepted both options and thought either one was fair. 

Unable to convince the dog owner to leave the dog in Uyuni and the group insisted to travel together, we two continued as a private tour. Since then, the guide didn't talk to me, which is fine to me to be honest, because his English is quite limited and often didn't communicate well. In fact, when I told the guide at the train cemetery that I started to feel ill, he called the company owner. Being on the phone, he came back to ask us "where are you from" and we felt strange--"from US" as we already told him. He then asked: " before US, where are you from? Japan? Korean?" We said: "Taiwan." We don't know how is this relevant at all. Nevertheless, we answered. And we heard him emphasizing "Taiwanese" in his conversation with the owner. (I will come back to this later.)

Just when we thought the issue was handled, it wasn't. The tension accumulated. On the second day, we arrived the hostel before 4:30p and he told us that dinner will be at 7:30p. We asked him: "it is too late to have dinner at 7:30p. Can we have the dinner earlier since we are already here?" He didn't understand what is "late" and what is "earlier," so we had to use the very simple way to make him understand. He said he would ask the chef. After taking shower and it was not even 5p, we asked whether he asked the chef and what did the chef said. He didn't ask at all and told us: "7:30, and I don't need an explanation. It's chef's decision." We told him: "we understand it's the chef's decision, and you may not need an explanation, but we do as we are already hungry, and we would like to know if the chef can move the dinner earlier." He refused to ask and said it's not possible. Wanting to solve the problem, my husband urged him to ask and we three all went to chef together. As soon as we said we are hungry with some body language, and then asked the guide to translate, the chef said something in Quechua and we asked the guide to translate, and it was "is 6:30 okay?" We said okay right away. In fact, when we arrived the dining room, there was already one table there. The guide was just too lazy or for whatever reason didn't want to ask the chef!

But the worst part just came half way during the dinner time-- he came to talk about day 3's plan and bragged that we were the first table to have dinner, and we told him, "no, there was already one table and see, it's easy, just asked the chef." He then started to yell and call me names. He talked to my husband, as mentioned that he didn't talk to me as soon as I told him I cannot travel with dogs, and literally pointed his finger at me, saying " she (referred to me) is a bad person, discriminative, it's just a dog, not a problem, and not his problem. 7:30p dinner, not his problem. All problems are her" and many other bad words. Among all those bad names he called me, I cannot understand how dog phobia is discriminative at all. My husband tried to help him understand by giving him an example that "“if someone is allergic to peanut, what do you do? You take away the peanut, correct? You don’t force that person to eat peanut, right? and you don't blame that person to have allergy or phobia, right?" Yet, he kept calling me names by repeating " she is so discriminative, bad education (I think what he wanted to say is ill mannered), it is just a dog. 7:30pm for dinner is okay, she is discriminative, and I am done with Taiwan." 

I cannot stand that nonsense. So I left the dinner table. Now I know why he had to ask where we are originally from, even we came to the tour as US citizens and US customers. Among all the groundless accusations he made, I am particularly upset about him calling me discriminative! I don't understand and cannot stand either that why a person with dog (or whatever pets may be) phobia is called to be a discriminative person! He treated me worse than he treated the dog of another customer! 

My husband left soon as he found it impossible to communicate with the guide and the guide just blamed me for everything. The guide even said multiple times that "I don't need the money!" We still don’t understand why not accepting a dog due to phobia and illness is being accused of being discriminative? Neither do we understand why this has anything to do with “money,” unless he was referring to tips, so my unable to tour with the other three made him lose the potential tips from other 3 passengers, and then he blamed me for that! 

We think the company is not honest because per the other customers of that group of 3, they said they had mentioned and asked the company whether they can bring the dog, and the company said YES. So it is the company's responsibility to ask us first whether we can accept it, not tried to hide the information. We were lucky enough, or because my dog phobia is so bad that I started to feel ill in no time when my cell phone still worked so that I can text our La Paz representative to solve the problem, given that the guide refused to and just forced me to take the dog, which he shouldn't have done to begin with! 

The guide is also not honest-- we were told very clearly that there will be hot tea because it is very cold. But after the first dinner, we didn't have hot tea. We had to ask, and then the guide said okay. We don't know what else he has been hiding from us-- on the second night's dinner, we didn't finish the dinner at all. We try to be environmentally friendly so we asked what happened to the tea box and the soft drink that we just opened but not finished, we could just finish them before opening another one. He didn't respond. But then on the way back to Uyuni on the third day, our car stopped in a small place and they asked us to wait in the car, and later they came back, told us that the mother of the driver lives there. We suspect that those newly opened tea boxes and etc. were given to the mother. We are fine that if those unfinished food was given to the mother as we all used the serving spoon and etc. However, when we were still in Uyuni, I saw the company was preparing food materials into those big plastic containers, but we never had anything made in some of the food materials they prepared. So who knows what else they have been hiding from us and yet charged us?

If you are like us who plan to travel with a travel agency, make sure you tell your travel agency that don't put you in a group with Cordillera Expeditions in Uyuni and make sure you avoid the guide named "Me-Cello." If you are finding the local group for yourself, avoid Cordillera Expeditions and avoid the guide "Me-Cello" too. This is by far the worst experience at all. I am not proud of having dog phobia, but being called a discriminative person due to that is just ridiculous and unbearable. Plus, how is our origin relevant in this kind of situation at all? Who is being discriminative?

秘魯玻利維亞之行 (行程篇)

第一次到南美洲, DG則是第一次到南半球的國家. 我們自認算是相對adventurous的人,我也自忖去過就算不多也絕對不算少國家的人,這次的旅行經驗還真的是畫下很多很多第一次. 這個有機會後敘. 我們是在網路上比較並找一間美國based的travel agency, 把想去的點給他們,讓他們幫我們排順序並代訂當地的機票巴士接車接機等等. 這類的travel agency不算少,但不是每間都願意客製化的行程. 又, 他們在Cusco和 La Paz有人, 在當地出狀況也比較能夠給予協助.  Uyuni他們就只能轉給當地的local operator, 剛好因為一些原因, 託給一間他們平常不合作的local operator, 事後也證明這是整個旅途最糟的一段!

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以下先把行程寫下, 有變化或其他建議則付於後. 這個行程很多海拔高之處,我把海拔高於一萬呎的也都列出來,供各位參考.

Day 0: 飛到FLL轉機 (6:53am-9:51a),目的地是Lima
中間FLL轉機時間七小時,
預計抵達Lima時間是10:03pm (5:20p-10:03p)
頁宿利馬機場對面的旅館

我們還利用轉機時間到市區吃午餐,逛了一下,並搭免費的水上trolley遊河(new river)了一下

實際上: 後半飛機先四次delayed, 最後終於取消了! 我們第一天在利馬(Lima)的free day兼buffer馬上泡湯! 並且影響到後面的長程巴士在Fort. Lauderdale住一晚


Day 1: free day in Lima 利馬Miraflores市區觀光

晚上10:15的Cruz del Sur (VIP Seating) 到 Ayacucho,預計早上八點到

實際上: 原來時間(5:20p) 飛利馬, 但也有些許delayed, 降落時已經晚上11點多. 

這天本來就是休息和當buffer用.休息是因為前一天是大清早的班機, 需要好好睡一下.而且如果依照原訂計畫,今晚又得夜車10小時去Ayacucho, 我會建議這天盡量排輕鬆點. 

Day 2: Millpu tours
夜宿 Ayacucho的VíaVía Café & Hotel 從Ayacucho到Millpu其實還有四小時的車程.

(開始爬的起點)海拔:11680 ft.

實際上: 臨時改訂今早5:25a的飛機到Ayacucho, 以在變化最小的情況下繼續Millpu行程. 
從昨晚11點多才降落,今早又是4:40就boarding的情況下, 開始睡眠不足. 而且前一天早上六點多的國際線, 也是早上四點左右就到機場了!

烏龍之ㄧ: 臨時訂的機票,竟然把我的名字拼錯! 多了個字母.跟travel agency說,他們表示差ㄧ個字母沒關係啦! 現在已經很晚,明早再打去給航空公司,ㄧ直要我們別擔心. 既然我們就住在機場對面,我們自己走過去問航空公司,自己處理. 航空公司櫃檯人員還告訴我們, 六小時前就收托運行李了喔!建議我們立刻先託運,這樣隔天一早就可以直接走到安檢就好. 於是乎我們走回旅館簡單洗個早後打包, 先把行李托運. 就這樣已經剩下三小時不到可睡了...

事後跟DG討論,我們看法不同. 他還是會選擇搭夜車,因為該夜車可以160度傾斜,多少可以睡覺. 不然搭飛機的話隔天是一早的飛機, 要早起很累.
我是偏好搭飛機. 如果順利, 在Lima的市區觀光最好五點左右就結束,早點睡隔天早上趕飛機. 我選擇飛機是因為從Ayacucho到Millpu其實還要四小時車程, 前一晚又搭了10小時的車的話,屁股會痛死! 這就各有所好,所以把兩種意見並陳,各位各自參考囉!

Day 3: 早上7:20a飛機回到Lima,再轉10:20am的飛機到Cusco.

海拔:11152 ft.

Cusco是過去印加帝國的老城. 感覺有點像故鄉台南,有一堆古蹟不知道如何是好...

經過Qorikancha (Inca ruins of a prominent 15th-century temple that once had walls & floors covered in pure gold.) 

到Cusco的旅館後,終於有時間開始吃今天的第一餐. 下午1點和travel agency當地辦公室的人會和先去辦玻利維亞簽證. 這個決定讓我們比較安心,事後也證明是正確的.因為長程國際巴士乘客就有人被海關留下來了...

之後利用一點時間我們逛了12角牆,兵器廣場, 還不知累的走上Saqsaywaman....

烏龍之ㄧ是DG的機票,國籍竟然被放成祕魯. 先前發現有跟travel agency說,他們表示打去航空公司駐記了

Day 4: Sacred valley tour (Maras, Moray, Ollantaytambo--但時間上來不及看)
算是輕鬆的一天. 搭火車到熱水鎮

海拔:11152 ft.
夜宿熱水鎮(Aguas Calientes)的Gringo Bill's Hotel.

趕到Ollantaytambo根本來不及看這個鎮,此處本來應該是馬丘比丘的行前預備的, 看了之後會更有感覺. 還在火車站,就聽到廣播,啥都聽不懂,只聽懂老爺的名字, 應該是類似飛機的last boarding call. 至於為什麼只聽懂老爺的名字? 因為邊跑邊上了火車,坐下來喘之後, 發現兩個烏龍: ㄧ是我的姓被拼錯了!拼成老爺的姓. 另一烏龍是在找座位就發現的, 站務人員根本就印錯車票,印到隔天的! 一度找不到老爺座位,但整個車廂只剩兩個位置, ㄧ個是我的, 另一個自然是老爺的. 坐下來喘之後才發現原來是站務員弄錯.   這火車車廂是不相通的,所以ㄧ開始就要上對車箱, 不能夠先跳上去再說.　又，我們大概太慢訂，訂到供應點心和茶飲料的車廂, 和回程的ㄧ般車箱相比,ㄧ人多七美金...


Day 5: Machu Picchu
早上四點半起床,好搭上早班公車上山, 六點的門票進到Machu Picchu 馬丘比丘
下午四點半火車回到 Ollantaytambo, 再回Cusco.

夜宿Cusco.
海拔:11152 ft.

Day 6: Rainbow Mountain
早上兩點半來接

最後一小段稜線可以的話盡量爬上去,整個視野會非常不一樣!

夜宿Cusco.
海拔: 16518ft

Day 7: Humantay Lake
(記錯了!)是 早上三點半來接

夜宿Cusco.
海拔: 13779ft


這個排法有兩種.我們的排法好處是, 前兩天比較輕鬆的行程來幫助適應高海拔.但缺點是後面連續兩天都累得半死. 另一種排法是把兩個累的(Humantay Lake和 Rainbow Mountain) 拆成第一天和第四天, 中間兩天輕鬆的當作休息. 但這種排法的缺點是第一天累的行程在適應高海拔上更為辛苦.

如果有時間, 我會建議中間多插一天Cusco的市區當休息. Cusco給我感覺很像我的故鄉台南,有很多點,所以就算中間一天在此,也不至於無聊. 建議的點除了兵器廣場,還可以去Qorikancha 和 Saqsaywaman.另外就是,強烈建議利用這機會先把玻利維亞簽證拿到.


又, 兩個累的都可以選擇騎馬上去(當然也可以全程騎馬啦! 但不是那麼需要), 如果只想選ㄧ個騎馬, 建議Humanaty Lake騎馬,因為雖然這個走的比較短,卻是全程上坡. Rainbow Mountain其實不算難走,除了最後ㄧ小段(那一段已經下馬,所以即使騎馬的人還是要小走), 但是海拔比較高, 所以更容易喘. 但只要放慢腳步,其實是很okay的.

Day 8: 長程巴士到Puno.
早上八點的巴士, 七點20接到巴士站. 一般而言,要提前30分鐘到,因為還要把大行李托運
到Puno已經是下午三點多了!

夜宿Puno
海拔: 12556ft

結果等了半天,時間到沒看到人,打電話問,說:再五分鐘, 五分鐘後又不見人影, 請旅館打電話給巴士站看能否等人,巴士站表示不等人, 趕緊請旅館幫忙叫車, 趕到車站託運行李,當時大半人都已經在車上了!上車坐好位置7:59分,還來不及喘,車就開了!  有了這經驗, 趕緊連絡後面接去搭長途車和飛機的,都比預定時間再提早個10分鐘. 現在已經經不起嚇啊!

Day 9: 的的喀喀湖.
早上7點來接,勉強吃到早餐...
海拔: 12507ft

夜宿Puno

Day 10: 早上六點45的巴士前往玻利維亞的La Paz
六點45的巴士,半小時前要到, 加上前一天來接我們時交通不好多等,於是乎早上6點就來接, 五點多就得起床...六點四五分的巴士,到La Paz已經下午兩點半. 先走了兩個多小時之後要換巴士, 再走一個多小時後過海關.

夜宿La Paz
海拔: 11942ft

下午到La Paz, 罷工繼續中,交通癱瘓. 進不去市區, 先去女巫市場.  不過還是依照計畫去了 Valle de las Animas,在那裏看夕陽(但竟然陰天,晚上還下雨! 這在乾季實在是少見啊). Valle de las Luna被放棄, 另外就是纜車大排長龍我們決定放棄, 回到旅館也已經九點了!

Day 11: ㄧ早飛機飛去烏尤尼(Uyuni). 車子6:30來接,但旅館的正式早餐要七點才開始,不過咖啡吐司則是半夜三點就開始. 想必是很清楚飛機和巴士時間要嘛ㄧ早要嘛很晚...

火車墳場, 仙人掌島
海拔: 11995ft


完全不建議Cordillera Expeditions, 是個不可靠的公司, 隱藏ㄧ些資訊,為了多賺錢,硬要把不同要求的乘客塞在一起. 一定要抗議到底 (有興趣的可以自行參考另一篇)
而且所謂的英語導遊(名字聽起來是 me-cello, "米切羅")根本英語就很爛, 連太晚了,可以早一點嗎? (too late, can we have dinner earlier)都聽不懂,問說什麼是late,什麼是earlier. 這個經驗超差, 打算寫ㄧ整篇來分享史上最爛經驗. 

Day 12: Uyuni第二天. 重點是科羅拉多湖(多彩湖, Laguna Colorada). 看到很多紅鶴
海拔: 11995ft


強烈建議花點錢住有暖氣的旅館和房間(如果有這選項的話).我們已經訂了有自己衛浴的房間,但很冷...第二晚零下20幾度,沒有暖氣. 尤其是長住台灣的人,大概會受不了這種溫度

Day 13: Uyuni 第三天. 五點開始行程. Sol de la Manana地熱區和間歇泉, 綠湖(Laguna Verde)和白湖 (Laguna Blanca). 晚上9:45飛機回La Paz, 回到La Paz已經十點半, 再到旅館已經半夜. 但, 前幾天都沒得好好洗澡, 不先好好洗個熱水澡實在不行.

海拔: 11995ft

因為跟這當地領隊不愉快(請看下一篇),而且隔天早上又是早班機, 我們決定到Uyuni後就直接到機場去,看能否換成早一點的班機(8:55p)回La Paz. 結果好笑了! 好不容易等到櫃檯開了! 一問之下, 8:55的飛機取消,所以只能乖乖等原來的班機. 好笑的是,後來check in時排我們後面的乘客和我們聊天,他們是8:55p的但沒被通知有異動. 結果換他們check in時,我們問了一下到底有無8:55p的班機, 櫃台人員跟他們說: their flight was not cancelled, it is just delayed. 然後我們就想知道delayed到幾點,是否比我們的早, 櫃台人員才對我們說: they will take the same flight with you. 所以根本就是取消了嘛! 什麼delayed啊!!

基本上Uyuni的第二和三天在 Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa 裡. 最後一天都在趕車回Uyuni. 如果想要避免最後一天都在趕路,另一個選擇是從智利那頭出去到智利的San Pedro de Atacama. 


Day 14: 早上七點多飛機飛到利馬.早上5:15來接去機場. 晚上11:05飛機到FLL (6:04am+1), 再接7:10a飛機

利馬市區觀光,我們已經累得只留在Miraflores, 而且還弄錯,本來請司機到Huaca Pucllana接我們去機場的, 結果那天他根本公休!! 臨時改到Huaca Huallamarca來接. 我們先參觀織物博物館Amano, 逛逛公園, 再參觀ㄧ下Huacca Huallamarca就沒力了


結果Lima飛FLL的飛機又delayed了! 於是錯過轉機, 原本FLL直飛的飛機,被改訂成經過紐約轉機. 本來應該是 Day 15的早上10點10分可以回到密西根的,這下搞到Day 15 晚上六點49才降落....累死了

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1. 一定要準備足夠的高山症的藥....以前的登山經驗,我自認為4000公尺左右不是問題. 大概年紀+現在體力變差, 這次三千多將近四千就會喘了, Rainbow Mountain更是喘到要斷氣,後來才發現原來那個是五千多公尺了.........
2. 也可以考慮倒過來走. 倒過來走的好處是, 才剛開始旅行, 先住幾晚不怎樣的旅館應該是比較可以接受. 但缺點是, Uyuni的這幾天雖然搭車很久不舒服, 行程基本上是輕鬆的. 所以如果是後面才開始爬Rainbow Mountain和Humantay Lake, 應該會顯得更累...